So Here's Our Vacation Blog...

Sorry, but nothing to photograph yesterday - maybe that’s a plus!  Saturday started out smoothly, didn’t end that way.  Since Marge and I had repacked all our clothes and goodies into four suitcases plus our carry-ons Friday night, we had an easy job Saturday morning just finishing a few things and getting the car loaded.  A quick trip to the airport, easy rental car return, all was uneventful.  When we got to the Air Canada counter to check in, we found out our flight was two hours late because the incoming aircraft was going to be late.  They thought we might still make our connecting flight in Toronto, though, so no worries.

The flight itself was smooth and trouble-free.  As I said after the outbound flight, this Air Canada Premium Rouge is definitely the way to go.  Champagne when you sit down, hot towels to clean up before dining on an excellent meal served on china and linen, accompanied by cocktails or as much wine as you wanted.  While the time away watching first-run movies on a personal iPad.

Found out mid-flight that we were going to miss our connection, and had already been rebooked for another flight two hours later.  Problem was that we had a limo waiting for us at the prescribed time, we weren’t going to be there, and there was no way to reach the service while we were over the Atlantic.  Reached him when we landed, and made arrangements for him to return at a later time.

Made the plane change in Toronto with no trouble, until we got onto the runway and we heard the brakes screeching.  No way was this plane going to Detroit, in my opinion!  After an hour waiting on the runway while the pilot talked with mechanics by phone trying to remotely diagnose or repair them, they decided to return to the gate and change planes.  Now I had to call the limo again and tell him we’d be further delayed.

When all was said and done, we got into Detroit five hours late - 1:00 am - and the limo was not able to wait for us.  Had to search around the airport for a ride, and luckily found a Lincoln SUV with no client waiting to go.  Whew!  Almost had to call one of you for a ride, but luckily not.  Got home at 2:00 in the morning, so that was a 24 hour day for us, and we were bushed.

Sunday after Mass we took time to unpack - clothes in the laundry and a mountain of souvenirs on the kitchen table.  Now for days of sorting and labeling, figuring out who each of the items is for.

One thing about spending so much time in another culture is that we got used to the excellent Mediterranean cooking, and are not ready to return to grilled chicken and meatloaf.  Stopped at the grocery store and loaded up on ingredients for our own home-made tapas and spent a couple hours cooking a delicious meal in olive-oil with different seasoning.  Maybe we'll be healthier one day.

This was without a doubt the trip of a lifetime.  We were able to experience not only new places and different cultures, but met many interesting and friendly people, saw many unique and different architectural and natural wonders, even attended Mass on four Sundays in four different languages (Portuguese, French, Catalan, Spanish)!  We were able to refine our travel planning and rituals so the next time we’ll be able to do more in less time with less luggage.  So next year - Scotland, investigating Marge’s ancestry, and then we’ll see.  There may be another Lisbon / Collioure trip down the road.

Thanks to all of you for reading our blog, whoever you are.  We hope you’ve enjoyed it, even if just a little, and wish that one day you’ll take your trip of a lifetime!

Marge & Mark

Breakfast at a local coffee shop / pasteleria where the locals drop in to grab a roll and an expresso, eat and drink at the glass counter in two minutes and leave.  Had fresh squeezed orange juice that’s so popular here - everybody uses machines where you dump a case of oranges in the top and through a glass case watch them automatically get cut in half and squeezed.  Walked down a couple blocks to the top of Avenida da Liberdade, to see the “Estatua del Marqués de Pombal”, the statue of the Marquis of Pombal in the square named after him (it’s actually in the middle of a gigantic roundabout, so it’s not a square - go figure).  Very famous, built 100 years ago as a tribute to the Marquis, who was in power when Baixa was rebuilt after the earthquake / flood / fires in 1755.  Tremendous detail illustrating the many aspects of Portuguese life, and of course with naked women galore.

Then walked down the avenue window shopping.  Marge seemed drawn to certain windows - the ones with expensive items in them!

We saw some other items that we thought might be great for Christmas presents.  Father and son bathing suits...what color do you like, Billy.

And maybe a frilly party dress for Elizabeth from Dolce and Gabbana - who could turn down that gift?!

Last night while we were walking in the dark through the major plaza in the area we saw a group of young adults all dressed in black capes standing in a circle, those in the middle walking in a figure eight and chanting loudly while those around the outside were cheering at certain times.  Seemed like witchcraft or some kind of cult.  Today we saw the same group several times in different areas, still couldn’t figure out what they were doing, but they did look sinister.  Then finally we saw them again in a circle, but this time some of them were sitting on the ground and being humiliated.  That’s when we realized this must have been some kind of college initiation, like hazing!  Funny how you think the worst when you don’t understand the language.

As we walked into Baixa we were confronted by a huge mob of people chanting and waving flags.  Not sure if Portugal was suddenly being overthrown, so we were a bit cautious, but took photos and video of their deafening chanting.  We got around them, continued on, only to see them coming down another street right at us!  Once again we detoured, finally found a place away from the organized chaos for dinner.  I felt sorry for the buskers and street performers, as this mob swept them away!  Turns out Portugal is having an election on Sunday and this was the Partido Socialista party, opposing the Partido Social Democrata, which I think is the president’s party but a minority.  Try to figure out the difference between these two - I like it better when you can tell a Democrat from a Republican after a one minute discussion!

So we finally had our last dinner in Portugal - Paella, of course, and rose, while we sat in the concourse under an umbrella and watched the tourists.  Then on the way back to the apartment to pack we had to stop at the pasteleria for a few pasteis de nata as our final farewell.

We’re supposed to land in Detroit about 8:00 pm, assuming all goes well.  I’ll be in no shape to write an update tomorrow, but will makes sure to put something up Sunday so you know we made it home.  Wish us luck on our flight home!

This morning we were supposed to go on a boat ride to see the Carvoeiro caves, but all passenger rides were called off due to rough seas.  Crap!  On the other hand, it gave us time for other stuff (a life motto - never run out of stuff to do).  Before we got into Lisbon we stopped at the ‘Sanctuario Nacional de Cristo Rei.,’ which is across the river from Lisbon.  The monument is ~365 feet tall at Jesus’ feet, and you can take an elevator to that level for a 360 degree view of the city.  Interesting story as to why this exists, beginning with the Bishop of Lisbon visiting Rio, admiring their statue on a mountain, and convincing the religious and secular leaders to build one if Portugal were to stay out of the war.  Portugal did and the memorial was built.

Here’s the top side of the bridge we showed you when we went on our sailboat cruise.

And a view of the city.  This is only the eastern half, as it also extends far to the west.  This picture is the Baixa area where we stayed last time through.

Since we were on the other side of the river it was easy to drive down some twisting alleys to the waterfront, which again we saw on the sailboat cruise.  Terribly dangerous looking area, but now with a pedestrian walkway and two restaurants serving local seafood like this tuna tataki, seared in olive oil, black pepper, and sesame seeds.  Fabulous.

Marge approved.

Checked into our room on Avenida da Liberdade, which is the main high-class shopping district in Lisbon.  Modeled after Champs-Élysées in Paris, it’s a boulevard with center lanes for cars, then on each side are wide pedestrian areas with streams and fountains under canopies formed by the massive trees, benches, outdoor cafes, etc., then the outside lanes are for taxis and local residents.  A mile and a half of cobblestones , marble, and granite, and very impressive.

More impressive are the stores.  Think of every high-end store you’ve ever seen, like Dolce & Gabbana, Higo Boss, Zadig & Voltaire, Cartier, and throw in an equal number you’ve never heard of because they don’t have stores in Detroit (like Maje, rhymes with Dodge, which you will hear about later).  Our tres chic sixth floor apartment looks out over all the action, and walking out the door puts us in the middle of it - for a couple days.

We decided to live it up, and went to the Sky Bar a couple blocks away, on top of a luxury hotel (doormen in tuxedos and top hats).  Best view of the city from a rooftop bar, they say, and I believe them.  Cheers!

Next stop was the Red Frog Speakeasy.  Nondescript, no sign, just a red frog on the side of a building and a locked door.  Push the button, tell them you want drinks, and they buzz you into a downstairs room that’s much more elegant than a speakeasy was in the 1930s. Marge opted for a gin drink with dill, pineapple, celery, and borage (I’ll make you look that one up) served in a shallow bowl, called Slow & Fast, while I opted for my usual single malt scotch, except I asked for a dirty glass.

We wanted to go to the Lisbon Jazz Club, also nearby, but they didn’t open until 10:00 and who knows when the band would show up (jazz musicians aren’t known to be the most punctual), so we walked about a mile to the area where we stayed last month for one last hurrah and to get something to eat.  We joked about getting Piri-Piri chicken, because I wanted to ry it, couldn’t find it, and then was told by a local that it’s what they order when they get carry-out!  Well today was my lucky day, because the restaurant we chose had it on the menu.  A little more formal that carry-out, it was a tomato-based broth with many minced vegetables in it, and it tasted like they partially grilled the chicken and then let it simmer in the broth, or some such method.  In any case, it was fantastic!  Reminded me of a dish we sometimes get in Windsor from an out-of-the-way, lower lever Italian place - Chicken Diable - which is hot enough to burn your lips but tasty enough that you can’t stop eating it.  Marge will have to find a recipe for this one!

So off to bed and tomorrow will be our last shopping day before repacking a month’s worth of treasures for the trip home.  Wish us luck!

Drove through Puerto Banus on the way out of Marbella this morning, hoping to see the 1000 yachts moored there.  Unbelievable.  This place is locked up tighter than a Republican Presidential Convention!  Guards at both ends of town with electric gates, not letting anybody in unless you’re a member.  This is one exclusive club - I guess I’ll need to work another 47 years to save up for a yacht so I can see what’s on the other side of the buildings!

Drove through the mountains to Seville (although n Spain it’s spelled Sevilla and pronounced suh VIH yuh), on a winding road - very interesting.  Aside from the fact there were a huge number of bicycles training up and down the mountain, and a huge number of motorcycles flying by around the blind corners across the solid double line, inside leg out, knee almost dragging on the ground, aside from the fact that there were numerous police in unmarked cars backed into roadside turnouts clocking speeders and sending the  radio message to their brethren in the chase cars below, we could actually see the Rock of Gibralter and the coast of Africa from up there!

We were up a little, between 3,000 & 4,000 feet, when the treed terrain turned to solid rock.  Interesting how they carve roads into the rock.

A few miles later after we crossed the mountain range into the interior, the hills began to look like Wisconsin - complete with hay rolls.

We made it to Sevilla and had lunch in a place on the river downtown, with a view of some of their monuments.

The city is much more cosmopolitan than any we’ve been to in the last month - you’d think you were in Chicago except everybody talks funny.  Not much in the way of old European tradition here.  Marge made a new friend while walking through town

on the way to the Catedral de Sevilla, which we didn’t stop in.

There were very long lines for every monument, and the line for the beautiful gardens was probably a couple hours long!  So we then stopped at a couple beaches on the way to Carvoeiro, where we are now.  The coast here is like Pictured Rocks in Michigan’s UP, except there are many coves with beautiful sand beaches all over.

and rock formations, which are very cool.

Tomorrow we’re going on a quick ride in a small boat to see the caves that form in the base of these cliffs  from the water and take photos.  Had a nice dinner tonight, watched the sunset against the rocky cliffs while eating a traditional Portuguese dish of cod and rice in a cream sauce, topped off with Pasteis de Nata gelato - two taste treats in one!  All for now, will have photos of the cliffs and cave tomorrow, then off to Lisbon for our last hurrah!

I know everybody is expecting me to just keep on writing every day, but this is a lot of work!  It’s especially hard when we’ve had beers at lunch, mid-day wine and tapas, cocktails before dinner, wine with dinner, an after dinner drink, and then a nightcap on the terrace - Whew!  Not used to this Mediterranean lifestyle.

This morning Marge and I had breakfast at our hotel - a rather humdrum place, nothing special.

We walked around the old town to see the Moorish castle ( don’t know why they call it Moorish, as it was built by the Moors, so it’s not a Moorish castle, it’s a Moor castle.  Whatever.).  Very nice, but after seeing a couple dozen over the last month, this one needs a little refurbishment.  One thing that's different from the others we've seen lately is that the other side of this wall forms part of a day care center.  I don't think the toddlers are going to escape any time soon!

Off to the botanical garden / park.  This is special.  Built in the 18th century, with fountains, ceramic benches, and a carousel, the park was the focus of town.

The fountain, Fuente del Virgen del Rocio, pays tribute to a three foot tall statue from the 13th century (Virgen del Rocio, what else) that resides about three hours from here, just west of Seville.  There’s a procession each year that draws a million people!.  The fountain is nice, but I can’t imagine a million people waiting in line to see it.

The benches in the park, however, were a sight to behold.  Ceramic-covered, each one of the same basic style but with different images depicting life in Marbella.

There was another fountain, not so elegant, that had columns all around and on each one the ceramic tiles had pictures of fish.

I think this just shows what fish they caught 250 years ago, because I didn’t see any in the fountain.  Next we saw the set of twelve Salvador Dali statues the city commisioned.  They’re set along a boulevard (now a pedestrian area only) where wealthy folks used to drive their fancy carriages to show off to the other wealthy folks.  Kind of like Belle Isle in the 1920s.

I’m not a huge Dali fan, and while some of these are noteworthy...

others are not.

The boulevard links the old town and the botanical garden with the sea, where these days it’s a beach like any other - blue sky, white sand, palm frond beach umbrellas.

Near this area we saw a sign for what we thought was a baking school  specializing in pies.  Somebody tell Mary Elyse she’s got to send them a letter offering her video tapes!

Back to the old town, and yet another statue, ‘la Bella del Mar,’ only this time it was not Dali, just somebody wishing he were Dali.  Evidently it’s moderately famous because the lady is naked or the horse is emaciated, not sure.

Before we headed home we did a little more shopping (of course) and I was finally able to get the lovely Mrs. Salmonowicz to pose with the Ale Hop cow.  For those of you who haven’t heard of Ale Hop (ah lay HOOP, it’s a Spanish franchise in every European city with more than a thousand residents, and has so much cool and useless stuff in it you could blow your whole paycheck and never know where it went.  All kinds of little trinkets, cool gizmos, stuff you’ll never need but have to have.  Every medium city has at least one Ale Hop cow somewhere in it, and I finally got Marge to pose.  Ta daaaaa...

We regrouped and had dinner in the Placa de los Naranjos, the Orange Plaza, where the orange trees are planted.  I’ve got to mention that here are some kind of trees growing that have gigantic trumpet flowers on them, and they were beautiful!

Found a very nice restaurant and feasted, with our waiter bending over backwards to make us happy.  I had Lubina a la Sal, which is salted sea bass.  I’ve been meaning to try this regional dish and never had the opportunity, because they usually bake it for two.  The chef makes a bed of sea salt, lays the fish on it, packs the top with more sea salt, and bakes it.  When they waiter brings it to the table it’s an event.  He skillfully cuts around the edge of where he thinks the fish is, taps the top with the back of his spoon, scrapes off the salt, scrapes off the skin in one swift motion, then scoops the fillet from the bones and places it on your plate.  Lifts the entire skeleton from the fish and scoops the remaining fillet onto your plate.  I had to video the event.  It was delicious!

So then it was the usual - gelato, brandy on the private rooftop terrace, and write the blog.  Tomorrow we’re off to Seville for lunch on our way to Carvoeiro, where we’re going to see some of Mother Nature’s (i.e., God’s) handy work - caves in the cliffs and on the beach.  Log back in if you want to see them!